Relay wiringEarly 12v BMW 2002
High and Low Beam Relay
There are options in upgrading the relay and switch system.One option is to purchase an upgraded harness (#30815 - For H-4 halogen lights, #30816 - For H-4 halogen lights w/HB5 bulbs) from a supplier like Painless Wiring ( For clarification, the early model 2002s low beam circuit does not have a relay but it is fused in the stock fuse block on number three and four.The high beam circuit does not have a relay or a fuse.
Listed below are the needed parts.The part numbers listed are Susquehanna Motorsports (610.944.3233 or www.susquehanna.com/susq Parts list: From Susquehanna Motorsports 2 - relays
#87483 ($10.16 each) 2 - relay base kits #87123B (includes the crimp connectors #87272) ($2.56 each) 2 - H4 adapters #66490 ($7.85 each)
1 role - friction tape 7 colors of 14 gauge primary wire (fewer colors may be used, careful tagging of the wire is crucial.You may notice in the schematic and photo, I only used five, wish I had used seven) Solder Shrink wrap tubing
1Zip ties Dielectric grease (Permantex 67VR) Connections to 12v power and to ground.(The type connections depend on owner's preference and particular configuration.Tools needed: Soldering iron (I prefer the new butane units available at Sears or Radio Shack.Crimpers - this a specific tool to crimp the connectors used on the relay base ports.Radio Shack #64-410 Wire cutters and strippers Needle nose pliers Jewelers screw driver or small pic.Helping Hands Wiring Vise from Radio Shack helps to hold the wires while soldering, convince your wife, or bribe your kid to help.
Assembly instructions Determine mounting location for relays.
This location will determine the lengths of wire needed.
Cut the three wires on the H4 adaptors halfway between the male and female ends.Now you will have four adaptors, two female adaptors and two male adaptors.
You will not use one of the male adaptors in this procedure.
2Assemble the harness for the right headlight assembly: (I chose to ground the headlight assemblies on the drivers side inner fender well.They can be grounded at other places.The ground point chosen determines the length of ground wire.)
Solder lengths of wire to the three leads coming from the female H4 adaptor.
The leads from the connector are yellow, white, and brown.The brown wire (on the left side of the connector) is the ground.The yellow wire on the top of the connector is the low beam.
The white wire on the right side is the high beam.
Insulate the solder connections with shrink-wrap tubing.
Wrap the harness with friction tape.
Assemble the harness for the left headlight assembly This procedure is exactly like the right harness, but the wires are shorter.Hold off on wrapping the harness.You may want to include the next step in the harness too.
Assembly of the harness that will switch the relay: This next step is assembling the two wires that switch the relay on and off.
On one of the male H4 adaptors, remove the ground connector from the plastic base.This is done by inserting a small jewelers screwdriver or pick in the top of the base and bend back the small barb that holds the connector in the base and pull out the connector.This is easy as long as you insert the screwdriver in the correct place.
Now you have an adaptor with two brass connectors not three.Solder lengths of wire to the yellow and white lengths of wire that were on the H4 adaptor.
Remember the wire you solder to the yellow wire, it will terminate on the low beam relay point 86 and the wire you connect to the white wire will terminate on the high beam relay point 86
Insulate the solder joints with shrink-wrap tubing.
Now you can wrap this harness with the left headlight harness in friction tape.
FoglighthintsFOG LIGHT INSTALLATION HINTS By Jim Carlo (7/29/01) Version 1.0 (Use at Your Own Risk*) 1.Fog Light Switch I purchased a Fog Light Switch (00550-35976) from Toyota.I believe this switch is the same switch that is used for the Camry.
The switch fits perfectly into the left drivers side dash push-out.The switch is shown installed in Figure 1.
The switch has an amber light that shows when the fog lights are energized, and has three terminals.Wiring for the switch is shown Figure 2.
Fog Switch Figure 2
Fog Switch Detail The switch has three contacts: 1) I connected the Power Wire to the Positive (+) Parking Light Wire.As you can see in Figure 1, I also had an alarm connected (and the alarm used this Positive (+) Parking Light Wire so it was easy to find).Toyota actually uses a negative (-) Parking Light Wire at the Parking Light switch to energize a parking light relay (but - you need to attach on the contact side of the relay).To find a Positive (+) Parking Light Wire, find a wire that goes near the instrument panel lights and is +12V when the lights (parking, high beam, low beam) are on and not connected when the lights are off.Dont pick a wire that dims with the dimmer switch.
Alternatively, you could use a wire that actually goes to the parking lights outside the passenger compartment, but then you have to figure out how to bring this wire into the passenger compartment.
2) The white wire, I connected to Ground (any connection screw to chassis should work here).
This wire is internally connected to the switch amber light.
3) The black wire I connected to the Fog Lamp relay (coil side pin # 86).I ran this wire (24 AWG) through the same little hold that the alarm speaker ran through, into the engine compartment and to the Fog Lamp relay.This is the only connection needed between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment.
I note that with this connection, the Fog Lights will only turn on when either the parking lights, low beam or high beam lights are on.This way, I dont have to worry about turning the Fog Lights off when I leave the car, since they will turn off when I turn the parking lights off (and there is a beautiful chime to remind me).An added feature (note I have underlined feature) is that when the alarm blinks the parking lights (arm/disarm), the Fog Lights will also blink if the Fog Light switch is on.
I could have wired this point to +12V ignition-on point, but felt the flashing Fog Lights would help me find the car in the dark (no comments needed).
I installed a new fuse for the fog lights as shown in Figure 3.
Installation of Fog Lamp Fuse I found that in R/B #2, there was a power connection (always on) that I could insert a wire terminal on, attached a small fuse block (from Radio Shack) and then ran the Power Output outside the R/B #2 to the Fog lamp relay (pin # 30).
While the Fog Lamp installation instructions did not show a fuse, I felt more comfortable with it.
My fog lamps were 55W Hella Micro FF and I installed them on the Westin Safari Light Bar (see other WEB posts) available from Summit Racing.I followed the directions received in the kit.Figure 4 shows a full schematic.
Coil Contacts Fuse (15Amp) +12V Power Connection (100 Amp Link) Gnd Toyota Fog Light Switch Engine Compartment Passenger Compartment Switched +12V Parking Lights Fog Lights Hella Supplied Relay Figure 4
Fog Light Wiring Diagram * - Please note that these hints and drawing are provided for use at your own risk.I am also not sure about various legal issues on running with Fog Lights, as this is US State dependent..